Friday, June 2, 2023

Introduction

 When it comes to travel, there's something absolutely captivating about exploring new destinations and immersing yourself in their unique vibes. Our wanderlust-filled souls find joy in every corner of the world, from ancient temples to bustling streets and serene landscapes. Japan offers all of them. 

The story of my Japan travel blog started three years back when my wife and I decided to take a driving tour to Japan in March 2020. The Covid forced the cancellation. The self-managed trip was launched again in relatively impromptu manner. The trip was exceptionally successful and gratifying in terms of sightseeing   scenic beauty, cuisine, culture, , history, education, and other aspects that make traveling fulfilling, here's what you might experience during your visit. I feel totally enamored many aspects of this trip, so I am sharing the travel experiences and some reflections of the great experience. This is basically a travel blog but does have few social observations, personal opinions and  commentaries based on my background and quest to learn more about Japan.

Background: People in my generation has gone through unique perceptions about Japan.  Japan has always been very fascinating grabbing lots of attention yet remain so elusive. So I need to analyze my mental lenses for Japan before I post the pictures of Japan through camera lenses. I do not when my fascination with Japan started. It could be well introduced to me in childhood through a very popular Bollywood song

मेरा जूता है जापानी, ये पतलून इङ्ग्लिस्तानी

सर पे लाल टोपी रूसी, फ़िर भी दिल है हिन्दुस्तानी

 I leaned the song verbatim “Mera Joota hai Japani” ( 1955, My shoes are Japanese ) even before my learning nursery rhymes.  The song also glorifies the nomadic freelance travel. Bollywood also had films like “Love in Tokyo” (1964) making the word ‘Sayonara’ as colloquial as  the Goodbye in English.

My High school principal was an accomplished poet in Gujarati, who introduced Haiku(1965), the Japanese poetic form to Gujarati and it became very popular.  Early Novels in Gujarati Novel has a backdrop of Japanese victory over Russia (1905). Many  in parent’s generations  cheered for Japan  during pre- WW-II era over British colonialists. Few Japanese  books  like  “Hidden Flower” ( Pearl Buck), “Thousand cranes” ( Yasunari Kawabata who won the Noble Prize in literature in 1968), became Popular. Even in Eurocentric culture and  the western dominance, Japan provided counter balance and has been always pride of Asia, and a role-model.

Then came the epic film “Tora! Tora! Tora!” about the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor and the prophetic statement by the reluctant Japanese admiral.  That started my learning of history giving a different picture about the imperial past of Japan.

In the late 1980s, Japan appeared on the verge of an economic takeover of the world. The purchase of Columbia Pictures by Sony and the Rockefeller Center by Mitsubishi Real Estate at the time were two of the more dramatic examples of Japanese economic power. In Australia, residents of Queensland’s Gold Coast (with the notable exception of local real estate agents) protested the Japanese buy-up of prime real estate. The reaction in many parts of the world was fear. Movies such as "Rising Sun" intimated that there was a rather sinister plot by inscrutable kingpins to make Japan the next superpower by taking control of the global economy. My employer IBM exposed the Fujitsu and Hitachi which was believed to be the biggest industrial espionage case ever. Yet governments around the world at the time vied for investment from Japan,

Then in the late 1980s, Japan got stuck in recession. Japanese companies, too, which appeared unstoppable in the 1980s, are suddenly looking for international partners to help them out of their dire financial straits, hence the recent link-up between Nissan and the French automobile company Renault, preceded by the American company Ford’s massive purchase of Mazda shares.

Japan and Japanese society have been continuously subject of the headlines and scholarly analysis and debates. Is Japan Isolationist or expansionist?  Are they peace-loving or war-like?  Considerate of other cultures or arrogantly dismissive? Willing members of the international community or shy and fearful of engaging with others? Wildly successful or perched on the edge of economic ruin? Creators of stunningly beautiful art forms or destroyers of pristine natural environments

Japan also has a history of excessive nationalism, populism, and destructive xenophobia. Newspapers over the past few decades have provided all of these images!  Japan provides many important case studies and great examples of social changes like dealing with the aging population, urban development, and the nature of secular democracyand role of religion. More so for a developing nation like India also having the ancient civilization and burden of mythology and traditions vying to be a modern nation. 

Two weeks of trip and a set of cursory, anecdotal experiences cannot answer such complex issues. However, there are few observations that has reliable points.

Thursday, June 1, 2023

Photo Album summary


Japan Public Photo -Albums

  Place Description
General : Not a place specific
1   Overview /Highlights   Selected  few  from All Albums ;  Introduction 
2 Kimono The kimono, a traditional Japanese garment, holds profound cultural and artistic significance in Japan.
3  People    
Japan_Muslims Blog   How the right-wing propaganda against Muslims are wrong.!    

Cuisine 
6On the road /train   
Places
7  The Fuji Shibazakura Festival  Blog : Shibazakura Matsuri An ephemeral festival

More Pictures of  ShibaZakura
Kawaguchhico_all    Blog   Mt Fuji Photos  Kawaguchico 2 
Samja  Matsuri Selected    Sanja Matsuri  More ; Blog : Japan Shinto and  Buddhism Coexistence of formal rivals 
10   Hiroshima Blog  Reflection of  visting  Peacememorial  Musuem 
1Miyajma   Miyajima is an island in Japan that is known for its famous shrine, Itsukushima Shrine.less than an hour outside the city of Hiroshima. It is most famous for its giant torii gate
12 Kyoto_selected   . Blog Kyoto  MT_Kyoto 
13 Kyoto  Day 1  kiyomizu dera, Gion District 
14Fushimi Inaria  Taisa   
15 Arashiyama , Kinkaku-ji  More of Kyotos Photo-album ; Takasegawa Nijoen 
16  Romantic  Train  Blog Sagano Scenic  Railway 
17   Nara Blog 
18 Kanazawa   More Kanazawa   blog   Kenrokuen  Garden , Nagamachi st  
19   ShiraKawago_takayama Takayama   is a city in the mountainous Hida region of Gifu; half daytrip from  Shirakawago 
20   Niko Blog:   Toshu-gu  shrine, Rinno-Ji shire  Unesco Heritag eplace  
21  Tokyo West Tokyo      Blog Love In Tokyo 
22 Tokyo  Central  Tokyo 
23  North Tokyo  Tokyo National Musuem 
Videos  ( many , to be edited and added) 
 
     
     
     

Friday, May 26, 2023

Sanjo Matsuri

 
I  start my  Japan tavel log with the last days in Japan. That was to attend the famous  festival of  
Sanja Matsuri. It is one of the largest and most renowned festivals in the city, held annually on the third weekend of May at Asakusa Shrine. The eyewitnessing the festival is a great fun experience not just to quench the my "culture vulture" soul but as an illustrious example of religious co-existence in a modern secular society, between two sects having past rivalary and animosity. Japan has practiced a policy known as "Shinto-Buddhism amalgamation" (Shinbutsu Bunri) at the societal and national level. Sanja Matsuri. (I will expand on this Shinto-Buddhism co-existence later at the blog as it is a role-model some for many nations having inious contreligius conflicts)

It is  held over three days typically on the third weekend in May. It draws a very large crowd to the Asakusa area with around 2 million people visiting the festival during the course of the weekend. I coordianteed our trip to be at Asakusa, Tokyo on May 19-20 2023 to atted the festival. Last three years the festival did not  happen due to Covid. 

The festival features processions of portable shrines (mikoshi), traditional music and dance performances, and attracts a large number of visitors. It has some commonalities with the "rath yatra" in India where Hindu deities are carried on chariots few miles away or  "tajia  procession in Muharram"  ritual   by Shia Muslims.

The authorities has given  schedule and the procession pathways.   However  it was not followed   due to heavy  rain on Friday and light rain on Saturday. However I was  lucky enough to bump in to procession on late Friday evening and more of a full procession on Saturday noon  before leaving for the  airport for the retrun flight. 




.

The best day to visit the festival in my opinion is on the Saturday when all the local neighbourhoods are carrying their mikoshi (portable shrines) from Asakusa Shrine through the Senso-ji grounds and out through the Kaminarimon gate. There are around 100 mikoshi so the event goes on for quite a few hours with the first mikoshi leaving the shrine at around noon. At this time the crowd gets very intense with people pushing for a chance to see them up close.

Despite the intensity of the crowd you can't help be happy at this festival as you watch all the team members chanting and heaving the mikoshi into the air with so much enthusiasm. The mikoshi are not light either with many weighing in at around 1 ton but yet everyone looks like they are carrying it without too much trouble.  The people were exceptionally cordial. Readily allowed me to be part of procession inol the parade,  volunterring  for selfies , communicate ( even though we can not  w/o  some  translating rapp).  The Nakamise-dori, a shopping street  gets  so crowded (one can reconcile the visitor crowd  in millions)  that one may get mindful of   being  run over in a stempade. Fortunately crowd was very  patient and Civil  . You may see  in the  detailed  photo-album. 


My Videos of  SanjaMatsuri  festivals ( coming) 



Thursday, May 25, 2023

shibazakura Matsuri An ephemeral festival

 

Japan is known for its breathtaking landscapes. the natural beauty,Fuji, serene gardens, castles, shrines, picturesque countryside, or vibrant autumn foliage , cherry blosson. On the track of the scenic  beauty, our self-drive trip at the Mt.Fuji are was the absolute highlight. We took direct Hikari train from Kyoto to Odawara. After four days of rain and fogs, making Mt.Fuji in visible, just on our day of arriving and next days to our great good luck, the Mt. Fuji area opened yoo with sun and clear skies. 

We rented  the car  at the  Hakone Ropeway & Owakudani: Arrive and Cusiat Hakone and park your vehicle. Visit the Hakone Ropeway station and take the cable car up to Owakudani. Enjoye the breathtaking views of the volcanic valley, steam vents, and sulfur springs.  We drove to Kiwaguchico lake, checked in to hotel La Vista. The place had beautiful views of majestic Mt Fuji, Public and private onsens(Hot springs)  and Japanese cusines for the breakfast and dinner. 

Next day visited the ShibaZakura Festival. This ephemeral event takes place only a few weeks a day a year, in the middle of spring, when the famous Japanese small flowers, the shibazakura (or Phlox subulata), are in bloom. From about mid-April to the end of May, they hatch, tinting the meadows they occupy with pink, violet and white. We went on M ay 17tth when the Golden weekend was over and so did encounter  bg  crowds. 

ShibaZakura Matsuri 


entire  

In 2023, the festival is held from April 15 to May 28

map:  

The Fuji Shibazakura Festival Fuji Shibazakura Matsuri) is one of the best and most popular occasions nationwide to see shibazakura (pink moss or phlox moss in English). The venue of the festival, called Fuji Motosuko Resort, is located about three kilometers south of Lake Motosuko in the Fuji Five Lakes area, offering breathtaking views of vast fields of shibazakura, with Mount Fuji in the backdrop on clear days.

The festival is held typically from mid April to late May. The best time to see the flowers varies from year to year but usually falls into the first three weeks of May. Approximately 800,000 stalks of shibazakura of five varieties are on display, producing delightful fields of pink, white and purple colors in different hues. Festival stalls selling pots of pink moss, shibazakura-themed souvenirs, food and local produce complete the experience.

As the venue of the Fuji Shibazakura Festival can get quite crowded due to its popularity, it is advisable to avoid visiting on weekends or over the Golden Week holidays. Visiting early in the mornings is generally good to avoid congestion and for good visibility, although lighting for photos tends to be better in the afternoon..


The entire area of MT. Fuji national park is awesome. The Fuji Five Lakes (Lakes Yamanaka, Kawaguchi, Saiko, Shoji and Motosu) is the most popular tourist route in exploring the area around Mt. Fuji. Each lake gives a different perspective, some have panoramic viewing decks, others with ropeways, but my personal favorite was Lake Kawaguchi (more on that later). Self-driving is the ideal way to see and manage high costs of private transport . The car rental allow you to travel along the Fuji Five Lake route, though you lose flexibility. Do need off line maps as one looses signal for GPS in muntain loops.



We also visited the Otodome Falls and the  Shiraito Falls, ranked among the most beautiful waterfalls in Japan, the 150 meter wide cascade is fed by the volcano's spring water and flows off the edge of a 20 meter high cliff in thin white streams that resemble hanging threads of silk - hence its name. 


Rest of the pictures at  the Kwaguchico Lake 


References :


http://www.shibazakura.jp/eng/.


Wednesday, May 24, 2023

Japan Shinto and Buddhism Coexistence of formal rivals

My home town, Ahmedabad, India   celebrates public Hindu festivals like Rath-Yatra ( parade of chariots attended by the public) and a separate one called    ta'zieh by Shia Muslims. Can one imagine the active participation of both communities? Both public celebrations hs been the flash point of the major communal riots.  

Religious conflicts have been a recurring theme throughout human history. While religion can be a source of unity and peace, it has also been a cause of division and violence. Japan was no exception . However, Japan has accomplished  something that is a role-model some to the rest of human civilizations 

Kamakura, once the Japanese capital ( Place known for the Great Buddha of Kamakura (Daibutsu)),epicenter of Buddhism was burned down by the rival  Shinto's in 14th century. 

Shintoism and Buddhism have a complex history in Japan. In the past, they were indeed seen as rivals, with both religions competing for followers and influence. However, over time, they found a way to coexist and even influence each other.

During the 6th and 7th centuries, Buddhism was introduced to Japan from China and Korea, while Shintoism was the indigenous belief system. Initially, there was a conflict between the two, as Buddhism challenged the authority of the Shinto gods and shrines. However, the two religions gradually began to merge and syncretize.

During the Edo period (1603-1868) in Japan, both Shinto and Buddhism played significant roles in the lives of the Japanese people. While there were historical instances of rivalry and conflict between the two religions, the Edo period saw efforts to harmonize and integrate the two.

 Here's how Japan achieved coexistence and social harmony between Shinto and Buddhism during the Edo period:


Shinbutsu Shūgō (Syncretism of Kami and Buddhas): This was a syncretic doctrine that integrated Shinto deities (kami) and Buddhist deities (butsu). Many Shinto shrines had Buddhist temples built within their precincts, and vice versa. This syncretism allowed for the coexistence of both religious practices and helped in blurring the lines between the two religions.

State Patronage: The Tokugawa shogunate, which ruled during the Edo period, promoted both Shinto and Buddhism. While the shogunate was officially aligned with Buddhism, it did not suppress Shinto. Instead, it used both religions to legitimize its rule and maintain social order.

Danka System: The Tokugawa shogunate institutionalized the Danka system, which required every household to be affiliated with a Buddhist temple. This system was primarily a means to suppress Christianity, but it also reinforced the role of Buddhism in daily life, ensuring its coexistence with Shinto.

Cultural Integration: Both Shinto and Buddhism influenced various aspects of Japanese culture, from arts and literature to festivals and rituals. This cultural integration helped in normalizing the coexistence of both religions in daily life.

Separate Roles: Over time, Shinto and Buddhism began to play distinct roles in the lives of the Japanese. Shinto was associated with life events like birth and marriage, while Buddhism was associated with death and funerary rites. This clear delineation reduced potential conflicts.

Japan as a Case Study for Other Nations:

Syncretism: Japan's approach to religious syncretism can serve as a model for other nations dealing with religious conflicts. By finding commonalities and integrating beliefs, it's possible to reduce tensions and promote harmony.

State Neutrality: The Tokugawa shogunate's approach of patronizing both religions without favoring one over the other can be a lesson in religious neutrality for modern states.

Cultural Integration: By integrating religious practices and beliefs into daily life and culture, Japan ensured that religion became a unifying, rather than divisive, force.

Clear Delineation: By allowing different religions to play distinct roles in society, Japan reduced potential areas of conflict.


Promotion of Dialogue: Encouraging dialogue and understanding between different religious groups can help in dispelling myths and misconceptions, leading to greater harmony.


While Japan's approach to religious harmony during the Edo period was unique to its historical and cultural context, the underlying principles can provide valuable lessons for modern nations grappling with religious conflicts.


Influence of Hindu Mythology

It is important to note that while these Japanese deities have origins in Hindu gods and mythology, they have been adapted to fit the local context and may have different attributes and stories associated with them in Japan. Additionally, the influence of Hinduism on Japanese religion and mythology is just one part of a complex tapestry of influences that includes indigenous Japanese beliefs, as well as influences from China, Korea, and other parts of Asia.

There are several Japanese gods and deities that have been influenced by Hindu gods and mythology, primarily through the transmission of Buddhism from India to Japan. Here are a few examples:

  1. Benzaiten (Benten): She is the Japanese version of the Hindu goddess Saraswati. Benzaiten is the goddess of everything that flows: water, words, speech, eloquence, music, and knowledge.

  2. Kangiten (Sho-ten): He is the Japanese version of the Hindu god Ganesha. Kangiten is often depicted as a pair of two-armed, elephant-headed deities in an embrace, which is quite different from the typical depictions of Ganesha in Hinduism.

  3. Taishakuten (Sakka): He is the Japanese version of the Hindu god Indra. Taishakuten is a deity of the Buddhist cosmology and is often depicted wielding a vajra (thunderbolt), similar to Indra in Hindu mythology.


  4. Bishamonten (Vaisravana): He is the Japanese version of the Hindu god Kubera, the god of wealth and prosperity. Bishamonten is one of the Seven Lucky Gods (Shichifukujin) in Japanese folklore.


  5. Marishi-ten: She is a goddess in Japanese Buddhism that has origins in the Hindu god Surya. Marishi-ten is often depicted as a beautiful woman riding a boar and is considered a protector of warriors.



Wednesday, May 17, 2023

Mt Fuji, Kawaguchico


Travel Notes   

Mt Fuji, Hakone (Hakone Ropeway / Owakudani), Tokyo (Shibuya - Shibuya Crossing - Hachiko Statue)

Today, we will travel to Mt. Fuji on our private luxury coach. If the weather is in our favor, we will stop by the Mt. Fuji 5th Station for a grand view of Japan's famous mountain. Enjoy an extensive tour of Hakone by taking a 20 minute ropeway ride from Togendai to Owakudani. Owakudani is known for its active volcanic zone that was created from the eruption of Mount Hakone some 3,000 years ago. Here, you can experience its hot springs and bubbling pools, where volcanic gases still linger. From there, we will travel to Tokyo and spend time in Shibuya. There, you will get to see the famed Shibuya Crossing in action and cross the street with the crowd. You will also be able to take photos with the Hachiko Statue, a monument


Live video cams

https://live.fujigoko.tv/?


The Fuji Five Lakes (Lakes Yamanaka, Kawaguchi, Saiko, Shoji and Motosu) is the most popular tourist route in exploring the area around Mt. Fuji. Each lake gives a different perspective, some have panoramic viewing decks, others with ropeways, but my personal favorite was Lake Kawaguchi (more on that later). If you don’t have a car, there are bus passes that allow you to travel along the Fuji Five Lake route, though you lose flexibility.

https://www.ecksplorer.com/blog/why-a-mini-road-trip-around-mt-fuji-is-amazing

 Odawara to Kawaguchiko 

MyMap  Mt. Fuji Hakone National Park 

https://international-permit.com/en-us/price.html

La Vista to Atami Sun Beach 

Hakone Ropeway, Owakudani, , Transfer from Hakone to Mt.Fuji,

http://bus-en.fujikyu.co.jp/mtpass/ Mt. Fuji bus pass amd routemap


https://www.ubuya.co.jp/ 


 recommendation would be take a trip around Mt. Fuji from Otsuki, Kawaguchiko, lake Yamanaka, Gotemba (outlet mall), the Hakone skyline, mt. Fuji skyline (rt 23 to152 to 180), the Shiraito falls, Asagiri plateau, Aokigahara forest, and other 3 lakes.

Shiraito falls 

(1) Self Drive Itinerary Mt. Fuji and surrounding areas : JapanTravel (reddit.com)

There is also some pass available for it http://bus-en.fujikyu.co.jp/mtpass/ and https://www.odakyu.jp/english/passes/fujihakone/


https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g294232-i525-k12203933-Self_drive_Atami_Shizuoka_Fuji_Five_Lakes-Japan.html

  • if you don't have a JR Pass, drop the car off at Kawaguchiko and take the bus to Tokyo.
  • If you plan to head south to visit the Izu Peninsula, pick up in either Mishima or Atami - no drop-off charge if you return car in either
  • The most efficient route is to pick up at Atami, go to Hakone in between and return at Kawaguchiko (if you don't have a JR Pass) or Otsuki (if you have a JR Pass). There is a drop-off fee of roughly 6,500 Yen. It's not a bad deal though since you won't need to backtrack to Atami, thus saving you lots of time, fuel and toll fees.
  •  besides the International Driving Permit and passport you are also required to bring along your own country home driving license although most car rental agencies just ask for the IDP to simplify procedure upon registration.
  • toll road that leads to Kawaguchiko 5th Station (2000 yen round trip). Plus gasoline and eventual parking fees.

Monday, May 15, 2023

Sagano Scenic Railway

 

IT IS HARD TO THINK of Kyoto without associating it with the green lushness of Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. Yet, the Sagano Scenic Train, also known as Sagano Romantic Train, is often overlooked by visitors who disembark at the same station for a day trip to the bamboo forest. For those unaware, the train seems to be bound for residential towns beyond a small forest—and yet, this is exactly where its modest beauty lies.

Western Kyoto has long been known for its natural beauty. In fact, the Arashiyama district has been a favorite of tourists for well over 1,000 years. The beauty of this region peaks twice a year, first during the cherry blossom season, and later during the time of autumn color. It is still  very pretty around the year  and  missed by most overseas tourists. 

The Sagano Scenic Railway is a wonderful way to tour and enjoy the natural beauty of this rural region. The train has come to be known as the Sagano Torokko, or Romantic Train, because its passage takes guests sightseeing through such romantic scenery. 


The Sagano Scenic Railway runs near the Hozugawa River. During the months of March and April, boughs of pink cherry blossoms sway above the passing train. In November and December, the trail is lined with flaming orange and red autumn leaves. The railway traverses seven kilometers, and the trip takes about 25 minutes one way as the train winds slowly through the mountains. and water gorges. 

Iwatayama Monkey Park in the Arashiyama Mountains, just a 10-munite hike from the bridge.  How to get to the Sagano Scenic Railway station

The journey starts from the  red-brick building Saga Torokko Station, which is located right next to the JR Saga-Arashiyama Station. Simply use your Japan Rail Pass to travel to Arashiyama. The Saga-Arashiyama Station is a brief 15-minute train ride from the Kyoto Station.

Next to the station is the red-brick building of Saga Torokko Station, from where you can take the Sagano Scenic Railway. This romantic train passes a gorge offering a lovely view along the Hozu River.

Photo album of the Sagano ROmantic railway